ON LINE PRICES

Many people tell me they cannot find prices for Dyna-Ski Boats on line.  This is a true statement and the reason I don't post prices on line are many.  Here are some of them: Everything we build is custom made to order so it is hard to have an MSRP on custom products and it seems no two boats are ever exactly the same.  I would have to keep updating the prices as the cost of materials keeps changing (increasing), trailer prices vary, motor prices vary widely, etc.  In short it is nearly impossible to have set prices unless you have a big markup and you can absorb smaller increases in costs. 

I am not saying that many boat companies have a large margin on their package MSRP pricing but they must don't you think?

If you want a general price range send me an email at:

 info@dyna-ski.com or give me a call at 715-854-7501

 

I normally reply from info@dyna-ski.com but I like to carry on conversations from my long time home email address which I will send you in the first reply.

If you want a great price on a Dyna-Ski Boat you will get one when you shop for one. Telling me your honest time frame is a good idea as many special deals I have go away very quickly.  The special deals are usually on the motor which can save you several thousand dollars.  If you keep shopping the prices do normally go up as all prices with products will continue to do except for big screen TV's it seems.

The trend I seem to be seeing lately among boat companies is simple.  They come up with a low price on a bare bones boat and then over price accessories to make good profit when you upgrade.  Sure they build and sell a few basic boats if you push hard to get one but it may not be easy to find one.  Dealers like to sell you a boat they have in stock as they know what that boat cost them and is costing them every day it sits in their inventory. A custom made to order water ski boat is exactly what you want and will get as well as being only what you pay for at Dyna-Ski.  I'm really an order taker and I do my best to keep prices affordable which gets tougher every day.  I give you a firm price that is good for 30 days.

Our suppliers are increasing the cost of everything including motors, rigging, steering, trailers, etc..  I will always try to put a water ready package together for a buyer if they have a realistic budget in mind.  Often times shoppers may not have done much homework though and then Dyna-Ski prices may seem high as they are comparing new Dyna-Ski Boats to boats purchased in their past and/or older used boats that the owners want or need to sell.  The reality is there are a lot of old used water ski boats for sale. Many used boats are very used!  Very few if any true used Dyna-Ski boats available though and only a Hydrodyne or two here and there.  Hydrodyne last built new outboards in the early 1990's. That's 25 years ago!

New boats have a warranty, old boats don't.

I sometimes get people shopping for just the boat or hull for various reasons. They have a "great" older motor being one of them.  It is often expensive to make a much older motor work on a newer boat.  The labor to remove a motor along with all the old rigging and then reinstall it on a new boat is not cheap.  Keep in mind that labor is one of the biggest costs other than the materials needed for making the actual boat. The highly skilled fiberglass workers in the shop are not marine mechanics familiar with all the parts and pieces used rigging motors in the past. We also don't want the responsibility of making sure that the older engine ran well before and will run well afterwards.  If we have a problem with a new motor we take it to a local dealer for warranty service before you get the water ready boat.  This does happen from time to time.  So if you want to use your own used motor make a deal with your local marina to do the swapping.  Remember it isn't usually cheap. Check their shop rates. Get an estimate.

People must think that there is a big markup on the trailers and motors, there isn't in a water ready package.  Our money is made on building boats and not reselling motors and trailers. We sell outboard motors and trailers because boats need them.  Some of the labor rigging the boat for the motor is done while the boat is being assembled which saves time and money.

A replacement or "crate" 350 V-8 motor for a vehicle can be purchased for $1500 or so.  I just put a new 350 chevy in my 1970 plow truck.  Larger displacement V-8 motors cost a little more depending upon what the buyer wants.  My point is that I/O and inboard boat companies motors and very simple running gear costs way less than an outboard motor does. I/O's tend to be cheaper than outboards while inboards tend to be more than Dyna-Ski boats. Both I/O and inboards require way more maintenance every year.

Gas prices are down so now is a great time to sell a gas sucking inboard or vehicle.  I'm sure the prices of gasoline will increase because the oil companies are now used to making big profit on gasoline sales and when prices are down so are profits.

Getting the water out of your boat.

A neighbor and friend of mine has a 1991 Master Craft Outboard.  He called me the other day and said his boat has a bad crack in it and could I take a look at it.  So I did expecting to find a crack in the transom area as typically these boats crack in the back after a while when a more powerful and heavier outboard motor has replaced the original engine.  This was not the case though as this boat is cracked in the hull area but on the inside of the boat. There are other smaller cracks all over that don't show up in the pictures. The boat must have been stored with water under the floor which froze and the fiberglass cracked. When the owner picked up the uncovered boat from the dealer where it was for winterizing there was enough water in the boat that the battery compartment had water in it.  YIKES!

Obviously this isn't good.  The big problem is that water has soaked into the floatation foam under the floor.  During the summer water weeps out of the cracks. Every time the boat freezes in cold storage the more cracking is likely to occur. I suggested the owner weigh the boat and try to determine how much water the boat may have absorbed.

The fix can be very expensive.  It requires taking out the floors and removing the fiberglass surface (liner) and then scraping out all the water soaked foam. Install new foam, new fiberglass and then reinstall the floors. If  the cracks are just fixed chances are the cracking and others will happen every winter the boat is cold stored.

So make sure you get all the water out of your boat before you store it.  I do this by parking the boat and trailer on a steep incline at my boat landing and pulling the plug.  I patiently watch water slowly trickle out of the engine and wait if any water comes out of the hull drain plug until it has stopped.

While on my boat lift the drain plug is removed from the boat and the bow of the boat is higher than the drain plug on my lift.  Keep in mind that the bilge pump will not usually remove all the water from a boat. 

New Dyna-Ski Model?

I have been thinking about adding a new model to the Dyna-Ski line up. The model would be based on the old 18' model called the Blitz Boat. The old Hydrodyne boat company was way ahead of the rest of the world with some of their product offerings.  Sadly most of the molds were buried, destroyed or something and no longer seem to exist. The old Blitz Boat is about the same size as the 17.6 Open Bow and fit nicely on one of my lifts I have for 17.6 Dyna-Ski Boats.  I'm partial to the Port-A-Lift brand and I have four that I purchased used over the years of searching CraigList.

I somehow got a nice scan of an original brochure for the boat which was a member of the Hydrodyne Flat Top Family.  I honestly don't remember where I got the information from. I also have a 24' Hydrodyne Outboard Flat Top that is waiting for a future use and not for sale.  Sorry!

The old Blitz Boat is rated for 100 hp and I had an older good running Evinrude 85 hp available so I replaced the 85 hp Chrysler that came with my purchase found on the internet. I actually sold the old Chrysler engine. We put on new Evinrude controls and rigging using a 6 gallon gas can with the engine which requires oil to be mixed with the gasoline. Unfortunately the motor has no power trim or tilt yet. Transom is OK but not great and the boat seems pretty solid given its age. It is not a light boat by any means.

The boat had the side rails like the ones pictured on the brochure which I removed and saved because I did not like them on this boat for my intended use.  I have the ski pylon for the boat but removed it for my testing so far.  It appears easy to remove and install. The boat has a nice small wake very similar to the Dyna-Ski 17.6 Open Bow. The first Blitz Boat I saw several years ago did not have the railings on it. The boat was used as a pickup boat at the Division II Show Ski Nationals by the Silver Lake Ski Team.

It won't be cheap to build a new mold and I would most likely use the same hull mold that is used for the 17.6 Open Bow to keep the development cost down.  This would make the wake very similar to the excellent small ski wake that the popular 17.6 Open Bow has.

 

So what do you think?  Would you buy one?  

How much should it sell for water ready with a 90 hp motor and a decent trailer?

Wrap Around Rear Seat

All great things often take time.  Sometimes to much time perhaps?  We first offered wrap around rear seating in the 17.6 Closed Bows.  I was not perfectly happy with the rear seating so I never mentioned the option unless asked.  We finally made time to build fiberglass bases for the wrap around seats and did it right.  The fruits of our efforts are now available on all models of Dyna-Ski Boats.  One thing I noticed about white boats is they look much better in person than in pictures. This Dyna-Ski Boat looks awesome.

20' Open Bow Dyna-Ski with a single color white interior.

The rear seat as it looks from the passenger bench.

Passenger Bench Seat

Behind the drivers bucket seat

Behind the passenger seat

In the 20' Open Bow with the Sun Deck there is so much storage space you will forget where you put things just like my garage!

The Open Bow seating is the same on all models.

 This Dyna-Ski 20' Open Bow is powered by an Evinrude 225 HO.

Motor easily pushes the boat at 54 mph with a 4 blade 17" pitch water ski prop.

Optional extra swim platform is on the left side.

Hydraulic tilt steering, GPS Speedometer, trim, fuel, water pressure & voltage all monitored.

This Dyna-Ski is headed for a salt water user so it rides on a special Phoenix Trailer.

Full length bunks, bow stops, keel roller, swing tongue, vertical side guides, the works!

Time to purchase your last boat perhaps?

Boat Lifts information and insights

I own seven boat lifts. I like the aluminum cantilever style as I live on a shallow lake. Cantilever lifts go lower than vertical lifts generally, they are easier to repair and usually less expensive to purchase new or used.  Four of them are Port-a-Lift by Port-a-Dock.  I bought them all used finding most on CraigsList.   Two have bunks and two have the standard boat support system.  The longer bunks support the boat better and also seem to be easier to keep the boat level on the lift.  One has a canopy.  Two have 2000 lbs capacity (for 17.6's) and two have 2600 lbs capacity (20' models with one engine). The most notable difference of the two different capacity lifts are the winches. The Hydrodyne on the left is my friend's 1989 and my 1987 is on the canopy lift. We float all the lifts into place during the spring and winch them out in the fall after loosing them from the sandy bottom with a big mechanical jack.  The same jacks I use to level the docks. It is about 36" to 40" at the end of my dock.  We sit or hop off the dock and ski away with standard length water ski ropes.

The width of the bunks should be about the same as the boat trailer bunks.  If possible I like the bow of the boat a little higher than the stern so the water drains out easier. The bilge pump won't empty the bilge completely on most boats.  I take the plug out when the boat is on the lift after we are done skiing.

 

2600 lbs lift with full length bunks.

Often times the winch is bigger on the higher capacity lifts while the aluminum frame and bracing looks to be the same size.  

Below is the winch on a 2000 lbs capacity lift.

Below is the 2600 lbs lift winch.

I have added treated lumber deck boards to my lifts.  They run the full length of the lift. It is a cheap sort of safety step. I would not suggest putting a great deal of weight on the area as it isn't designed as a load bearing surface according to the manufacturers. The single board makes it hard to fall between the dock and the boat.

Boat covers are not water proof but they keep most of the water out of the boat though which is why my boat has a cover and canopy.    WARNING:  A canopy can turn into a sail so when the boat is not on the lift a good wind may move the lift along ways.  I install my canopy on the lift after the boat is in the lake for the ski season. I remove it when the boat is taken out in the late fall.  Installation tip: It is easier to stand on the boat raised up on the lift and install the cover than any other way I have tried.  I use plastic wire ties to secure the canopy to the frame.  I tend to lose the re-useable ones.

If you are looking at used lifts there often is a capacity sticker or model number on them.

This is a 2600 lbs lift with the standard boat support system.

The covers for the aluminum lift poles are 3" PVC pipe with covers.  I use them on my dock poles also. I notch the bottoms on some of them so they can hang down further than the dock would allow.  My docks are all roll in docks.  They all have 3 sets of wheels.  One set of wheels is on the shore end and they all have hinged 8' ramps. One dock is home made, one dock is an expensive store bought one and the 3rd is a used dock that was a great deal from a dealer that he took in trade.  My shore line has a gentle slope to the water so I can wheel the docks all straight in and out making weight not much of a concern. Docks are all hinged in the middle so less stress is placed on the bolted together sections of dock. The bigger dock with the slips the wing docks unbolt and wheel in to shore. I'll do an article on docks if enough people ask. 

Adaptive Speed Control and Inboard or Outboard boat motor?

I was reading a magazine called Boating Industry. In an article called "Launch" about new engines a portion of it focused on Mercury's new purpose-built marine engine a 4.5L V-6 250 horsepower sterndrive. The article also included the Evinrude G2 and new Suzuki outboard motors.

The two parts I found very interesting was the statement made by David Foulkes vice president of product development at Mercury.  He says about automobile engines in boats "it has made it difficult to fit an auto engine to the needs of boaters. The way auto engines are designed bear virtually no relation to the way a marine engine is operated". A thought I have shared for many years.

So it seems that outboard engines were the only engines designed for use in boats up until Mercury's new purpose-built marine engine the 4.5L V-6 250 horsepower sterndrive.   

The second and more interesting perhaps statement was that the motor has what they call "Adaptive Speed Control (ASC) which automatically maintains the set RPM point regardless of load or condition changes, such as tight turns, tow sports and lower speeds on plane. This is a big step in the right direction for water skiing.  Now if only Evinrude would apply it to their line of engines and Mercury would expand it to include their OptiMax engines as it is only an option on the Verado line.

Fine Tuning a water ski boat

I have logged a lot of hours in outboard powered Hydrodyne and Dyna-Ski Boats since the mid 1970's. Most of the time pulling water skiers doing all sorts of things including kites and parasails. Pulling a lot of skiers or a flying skier/person requires thinking ahead.

I take for granted that people know that they can fine tune a boat.  Most any boat can be fine tuned to some degree. To what extent you want to go is only limited by time and dollars you are willing to spend.

One of the easiest ways to fine tune a boat is using weight.  I like using vinyl coated weights that are used for weight lifting.  The weights can be purchased fairly cheap and some folks have them lying around the house already.  Lots of ski clubs use 50 - 70 lbs sand bags and I have seen lead shot used and even V-8 engine cylinder heads.  If you use weights just make sure they cannot shift easily.  Placing them on the floor under seats is a good place to put them.  Ski teams put them under the closed bow boats around and in front of the gas tank to help balance the boats multiple engines. Ski teams also use people in the boat often times while pulling bigger acts to help keep the high side of the boat down when making turns.  The longer new style Dyna-Ski boats don't seem to need this as much as the older shorter Hydrodyne style boats. The nice thing about using people is the additional weight is not always in the boat and it can be moved around somewhat.

In an open bow Dyna-Ski I like to add some weight to the nose of the boat under the front bow seat. In a closed bow it can be placed in the front of the boat also. It is harder to do in the closed bow as someone has the crawl under the bow.  I suggest you start with 50 - 70 lbs and adjust as you like.  I run about 100 lbs in the nose of my single motored boats.  Ski team's will use upwards of 850 lbs in some boats. Keep in mind that three 250 HO motors weigh 1600 lbs plus batteries & oil tanks to pull lots of skiers so weight is needed. I know more than one ski team driver that uses weight to balance the boat from side to side as he outweighs his passenger and likes the feel of a balanced boat.  It is not an exact science and subject to the taste of the primary driver in most cases.  Dyna-Ski boats has also put permanent weight under the floor of the boat below the gas tank when building a boat for customers that ask.

The easiest and cheapest thing to do is remove the pin that limits the travel of the motor down assuming the motor will not hit the hull of the boat.  The motor won't hit the hull on Dyna-Ski Boats.  Removing the pin allows the motor to be trimmed down more which helps keep the bow of the boat down. Top picture below is with the pin in and the lower is with the pin out and transom wedges.  More on transom wedges later.

The two methods of tuning above cost little to nothing.  The next steps require money.  Dyna-Ski boats are designed to accelerate with the bow down and run level with very little motor trimming required. At higher speeds trimming the motor up a little reduces bow steer and makes the boat easier to drive. When you slow down and turn to pick up a skier with a Dyna-Ski Boat the bow comes up a little which helps keep everyone dry in the boat.

Having the best prop on any boat for the engine and use makes a huge difference. I am assuming the outboard motor height is correct on the transom. Correct motor height is an article for another day perhaps? I like four blade props for Dyna-Ski Boats.  The best one for the V-6 on a 17.6 is a 15" pitch four blade.  The lower the pitch the more power that is available.  The higher pitch props give more speed but less acceleration.  A bow lifter prop on a water ski boat will make the boat hard to hold steady at slower speeds towing skiers.  Most of the twin and triple motored boats we build for ski teams have 4 blade 15 pitch props.  There are some older 3 blade props that work pretty well but most are not readily available new.  The four blade 17 pitch is also a very good prop on a 200 or bigger engine on a 20' Open Bow.  The 17 pitch gives a little more speed than a 15 pitch.  It comes down to driver preference in many cases on a 20' Open Bow with a single motor.

Next up on fine tuning is what we call transom wedges or shims.  We now install them on every 17.6 Open Bow as them seem to have more affect on a 17.6 Open Bow and not much affect on a 20' Open Bow.  There are several reasons we feel for this difference with weight and length being the main ones. In the picture below you can clearly see where the wedges go.  They are not very expensive but it does require longer motor bolts (usually) and would best be done by an experienced outboard mechanic.

An item that is often overlooked is shift and throttle cables.  Older mechanical cables tend to wear and the friction or resistance to movement increase. This makes it harder to make small speed changes with mechanical controls.  The mechanical controls also wear and get sloppy but not nearly as fast as the cables do. Of course with electronic controls there is no cable friction or wear allowing fine speed control adjustment very easily. There are buttons on the dash (pictured below) to start the engine, put the boat in gear and bump the throttle up and down 1%.  Sadly cruise control or "Perfect Pass" speed control is not offered yet. Electronic controls are pricey. They are available on some makes and models of engines.

You now have several ways to fine tune your outboard water ski boat. If you or I come up with some more ideas I will add them to this article or write another one.

Hylons or Extended Pylons

Over the years skiers have asked for taller pylons which we call extended pylons or hylons. It did not take long until the towers came onto the boating scene.  There are even towers with hylons on top of them.  We have sold Dyna-Ski boats with towers although I do not suggest them for several reasons and I prefer a Hylon for many reasons. The list is long including: cost, noise (towers rattle eventually), wind drag, wind noise, boat lift/canopy fit, garage fit, cover issues, etc. However we will sell you whatever you prefer!

With an extended pylon or hylon you can put it on the boat and take it off fairly easily depending upon which one you choose. If you quit using a tower in the future years you won't still have to contend with it if you go with an extended pylon. If you decide you want a tower it can be added at any time.  The brand I like and sell is Barefoot International.  We also use or sell their towers.  They are located in Milwaukee. Owners Mike and John have high quality products that are reasonably priced.

Link to their pylons and extended pylons:

http://www.barefootinternational.com/PYLONS.bifh

 There are several lengths of pylons in Dyna-Ski boats. The standard Dyna-Ski pylon diameter is 2 7/8" and the length varies according to the application and motor size.  The longest standard Dyna-Ski pylon is 48".  We also have a 83" pylon to replace the existing pylon made for us by KW Show Ski Equipment. KW also makes our rope guards and tow line releases. The 83" pylon has a limited load capacity as it does not require a strap to use. All Dyna-Ski pylons are pinned into a base bracket that is fastened to the floor. On some Dyna-Ski boats the base bracket has two mounting positions or heights for the pylon.

42" and 83" pylons

 Dyna-Ski offers a machined adapter to mount a Barefoot International/Fly High pylon extension to the Dyna-Ski Pylon. Below is the adapter on a pylon.

This is the adapter.

The options and things skiers do change all the time. The nice thing about Dyna-Ski is we custom build every boat to the specific customer's needs.  We don't try to sell you a boat we have in stock or left over from last year or the year before. Dyna-Ski won't hurry a Dyna-Ski Boat completion or take any short cuts. You get what you pay for in the end. Maybe that is why you never see any used ones . . . . . ..

Tracking Fins

As Hydrodyne boats are aging (remember outboard "Hydrodyne" versions were last produced in 1991 or 1992) I'm getting more and more requests for parts and pieces.  Tracking fins seem to be in the most demand.  Without a tracking fin the older single motored boats don't work so well I have been told.  I have experienced a 17.6 without a tracking fin and the boat does not turn at speed. The tracking fin is about 19" long and 6" tall.  The older aluminum fins were slightly longer and the holes are in a different locations than our composite fins holes. So replacing an old tracking fin with a new one is much easier.

The older boats had a cast aluminum tracking fin.  They are no longer available.  We switched to a composite tracking fin a long time ago for several reasons. The main one being a composite fin will break off and do less damage to the hull than a metal one will.  Easier and cheaper to replace a tracking fin than to fix a hole and replace a fin.

If your boat has lost its tracking fin the biggest concern should be the surface the tracking fin is mounted on. If water has gotten into the balsa coring it could damage the area quickly.  If the mounting area is bad the places the tracking fin are attached may not hold for very long. Fixing the hull can get very expensive very quickly.

 

If you choose to install a new tracking fin using a good marine caulk just like is used for mounting outboard engines is a good idea.  Use a lot and put it on both the boat and tracking fin. Being neat is not important but getting enough caulk around the holes is important. The excess caulk can be wiped off and no one looks at the bottom of your boat besides.  We use stainless steel screws and you should predrill the holes so the screws don't break off while installing them.

Evinrude G2 Outboard Engines

Evinrude has announced a new outboard engine line called the G2.  These V-6 engines are 200 - 300 Horsepower with 210 cubic inch displacement.  The motors are reported to have a 20% more torque and improved fuel economy (15%) along with built in hydraulic steering and in many cases power hydraulic steering.  The G2 also has a new trim system, digital integration with gauges, a sleek SLX gear case. This means the G2 motors will all be controlled and monitored with electronics so no more mechanical controls and cables. Different colored side panels can be ordered for the motors. There is no scheduled maintenance for 5-years or 500 hours. 

I am told that Teleflex/SeaStar Hydraulic helms and hoses work with the Evinrude G2 engines.

The new G2 motors cost more money. As an example the Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of a 20" shaft length 200 HO is $2,311.00 more for the new G2 motor with "Integrated Hydraulic" steering than a mechanical controlled 200 HO. The G2 has 10 more cubic inches of displacement.  If you want what they call "Integrated Power Steering" add $650 MSRP on to the G2's MSRP on the 200 HO model.

I don't have a cost on the parts and pieces needed for rigging the new G2 engines. The older style mechanical and ICON controls are not compatible.

The new G2 motors are slightly heavier and longer so the center of gravity is going to be further back and higher which will translate into the bow of your boat coming up more.  The motors weigh around 30 lbs more plus the oil tank is now built in to them so the weight of the oil will also add to the total weight on the transom.  How much the center of gravity changes is yet to be determined.

For twin and triple motored installations the motor spacing will need to be wider according to my inside sources at Evinrude and my "in the loop" ski team contacts. It looks like it will need to be about 1.5" wider.  The built in hydraulic steering system should make it easier to space the motors further apart.  With twins and triples on our 20' Closed Bow Models a different rope guard will be needed for the new engines. I am still trying to find out exactly how the steering will have to be physically connected for triple installations.

If you do a online search there are interesting articles and I expect more every day.  Here are a couple links you may be interested in checking out.

http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2014/06/outboard-expert-new-evinrude-e-tec-g2-outboards-debut-milwaukee/

http://www.evinrude.com/en-us/engines/etec_20/etec_200_ho_g2

I am anxious to try some of the G2 motors, I think!

The good, bad and ugly of Boat Trailers

We have sold boat trailers for many years.  We have tried several different styles and manufacturers.  Boat trailers have had the least increase in prices over the years it seems. Dyna-Ski pretty much settled in on a custom welded trailer and up until last year we sold the same brand of trailer with rare exception. The customer paid a little more and got a trailer that should last a long time with minimal maintenance we felt. My how times have changed.

Dyna-Ski 20' Closed Bow with 3 Mercury 150 Pro XS Motors.  

Now living in Canada.

Phoenix Dyna-Ski 20' Tandem Trailer for a triple.

Keep in mind that our hull shape has not changed at all as we use the same pair of molds.  The difference between the 20' and 17.6 model is 2' 6" of length and nothing else.

Notice how far back the two rear axles are located. 

We do this do to the weight of the motors all hanging on the back of the boat.

Last year I started selling tandem Phoenix trailers under the ski team models.  They trailer like a dream even with a heavy ski team triple.  The tandem Phoenix trailers we sell have four bunks including full length bunks. The full length bunks do an excellent job of supporting the gas in the large front mounted tank as well as the counter weight added by all ski teams. Sometimes it is lots of weight like 850 lbs. There are some other nice features which add to the cost of a Phoenix but seem to be well worth it.

Vertical Side Guides
Front loader style bow stop
LED Light Package
Swing Tongue
Aluminum on Fender Tops
Keel Roller on nose cross member
HD Fulton Jack
F2 Fulton Winch

One of the secrets to good trailer towing performance is towing with the boat nose high.  I tow with the tongue almost as high as the trailer jack can raise it.  The higher trailer coupler means less bouncing and better, smoother hydraulic brake performance. This also seems to make it easier to back the trailer without the brakes locking in most instances.

If you look at the brake actuator in the tongue when the hitch ball is lower you should be able to see that bouncing might cause the brakes to go on. When the tongue is high this does not happen unless you step on the brakes.  It is hard to explain but the difference can be felt when you drive down a rough road much quicker than on a smooth interstate highway.  The higher tongue while towing means improved MPG as the boat has less wind resistance and seems to stay cleaner.  The higher tongue even seems to help when towing an empty trailer.

The boat trailer brand we settled on in the past couple years have decreased in quality levels a great deal.  Most notable is the quality of the carpet on the bunks and bow stops.  The bunk & bow stop carpet has a very short life if it gets much use at all.  To help out our custoners I will sell you at cost a higher grade of carpet to recarpet your trailer bunks if you contact me. You can just put the new carpet over the old stuff if you want a quick fix.  Use lots of staples on the side and bottom.